Style in the City - The Pull of Silent Luxury
You’ve probably seen names like Polene and Goyard everywhere by now - at Tau in Midtown, Central Park, or the while riding subway on your way to work. While they certainly have the reputation to bolster sales, are these purses actually worth the splurge?
In the beginnings of every year, we can trust we’ll see a shift in societal values and trends, typically within the mainstream culture of fashion, music, and health. Over the past few years none of us have escaped the closed fist beating of loud luxury and logomania. Everyone wants to have a status symbol of how successful or in the know they are - especially in the streets of NYC. As the front lines in dynamic style and showcases of designer debuts, if a trend or idea takes here, it usually becomes popularized and will spread across social media and magazines to trickle into fast fashion and online stores alike.
Something I’m seeing in early 2024 is the carryover of intentionality and trying to make smart and ethical shopping decisions. While some are more than willing to drop serious cash on statement accessories and handbags (by some I mean mostly higher earning adults or affluent public figures) most found it a bit of an unrealistic reach to invest in a Chanel or a Jaquemus bag in the midst of a pandemic and some pretty awful economic factors here in the States.
I personally, found myself feeling the influence to shell out for these spotlighted purses, when my whole childhood I vocalized how averse I was to logos in favor of timeless and unbranded aesthetics. At first I thought my style was evolving, however, I know now that it was majorly a susceptibility to the accepted trends of the time. While I do believe everyone should express their personal style however loudly, quietly, or uniquely they prefer, I also believe that social media and influential channels or celebrities who shout wealth don’t subscribe to the same realities that most people do.
It may not simply be possible for the average 18-25 year old to spend their weekly or monthly income on their wardrobe. Based on the most recent data from the BLS - The Bureau of Labor Statistics - working 16 to 19 year-olds average $600.00 a week or $30,000 annually. If you’re living at home with parents or somewhere with extremely low living costs then you may find a bit of extra money to save or spend. However, when young adults enter college or move out alone, they realize that there are hidden fees everywhere these days.
The BLS also reports that there isn’t much increase in salary until after ages 26 to 30. By age 25 the average working woman still only barely clears $38,000.00 in yearly pay. To break it down a bit, that means you make around $2,000 to $2,500 a month. But when you factor in rent costs of around $1500 to $2000+ and things as groceries, utilities, transportation, and any surprises, that probably means you have a couple hundred to less than $100 left over. To me, that sounds like reason enough behind why fast fashion retailers have exploded with business as consumers scramble to keep up with trends but can only afford the cheaper dupes to achieve the appearance of being ‘in style’ or flush with shopping ability. It’s a known fact that the working and middle class have always strived to emulate the ‘elite’ in society.
This is why vendors who provide fake designer items are all the rage on TikTok and Youtube. Not to mention, the dreaded fashion cycle. The fashion cycle - which used to guarantee at least a 25 year minimum turnaround for fashions to come back into peak - has been accelerated by social media and influencers needing to constantly churn out new content. Not only has content ignited this fire, but deficiency in mental health has added gasoline, since most sales are a by-product of instant gratification or hopes to satisfy self esteem.
This is most easily seen in the once height of cow print, now cluttering thrift stores across the U.S.A. Though many loved the nostalgia and excessiveness of the Y2k and 80s aesthetics that recently came back into style and swamped markets, they are now seeing the same regurgitated pieces over and over and a distaste has developed for that unimaginative approach. I suspect the renewed interest in zebra and cheetah prints going around currently will leave behind a similar trail of cheap polyester dresses and blouses come the next season. Combine all of these reasons with the desire to be unique from the other 50 girls on the subway wearing the same Zara and Shein pieces, and we find ourselves arriving back to the mindset of timeless and unique style.
Minimal vs. Excessive Styling
Though not everyone is a capsule wardrobe minimalist, most aren’t the overly layered maximalists that I find in surplus on my explore page either. Majority of shoppers fall somewhere in the middle of the style spectrum. That huge key point is lost on the influencers and fashion icons who must always be shown in the newest or most eye catching garments. They think shock value because shock = talk and talk = viral views. I think for most people there is a desire for statement clothing; but to have it as the whole wardrobe can in turn be very limiting or make you feel like you’re playing in a costume.
Finding the most flattering silhouettes for yourself as a foundation can be the most helpful first step. Don’t forget a good hairstyle and color goes a long way too. Then focus on details like fabrics, embellishments, and accessories. Like the building blocks of a pyramid, the basis of your look should be your identity and personal interests. Picking things that look like they were made for you intentionally always shines brighter than someone who can afford to simply buy and dress in the latest designer drops. Staying on top of style by buying what’s trending is akin to asking AI to generate artwork - its regurgitated and unimaginative. Select items that you feel are worth the wear and longevity of your closet.
There is this one TikTok I remember seeing where a couple of friends are shopping and one woman is debating the worth of investing in a $250.00 handbag. Her friend encourages her into the purchase by saying the cost can be reasoned by deducting $10 per wear and saying she could wear it 25 times which is worth it to her. I saw in the comments how a lot of people were saying that amount is not even expensive. The issue is the people making these comments were clearly too young to even be making their own income or were well enough off that they spend without worry. The bulk of the comments were in agreeance with the hesitant friend, saying they take their finances and stability very seriously, which I can relate to as well.
I think this commentary has reopened the eyes of the fashion houses and designers to the gap in the industry that needs attention most: Quality products worth the tag they tote, but still in an attainable price range for most.
Enter….quiet luxury! I’m so here for the return to this mentality as I have been patiently waiting for the trend tides to turn. As a resident NYC girlie who does love luxurious pieces, I also love being comfortable and feeling like my choices are bespoke to me. This is what has drawn me to sleek and minimal designs for most of my life and what draws me back in now.
As I feel excitement for styling like I haven’t felt in a while, I wanted to spotlight the brands I’m seeing sported around the city and making a name for themselves at the table.
THE BAGS TO GRAB
A sleek vegan leather company run by a team of two in New York. The designer Jenny, wanted to create high quality bags and carrying cases for anyone with busy schedules. Their other goals were to keep prices manageable (thus they use vegan leather) and create as little environmental impact in manufacturing as well. The smaller pouches are roughly $100 - and their most expensive product still stays right at around $400.
What started with two brothers as a small shoe store in 1996 Singapore is now a global fashion name with shoes, handbags, jewelry, and kids clothing in both online and physical shops. They were the very first company in Singapore to launch an ecommerce website, jumping ahead of the game in 2004. In 2006 and they moved into men's footwear, soon releasing women’s shoes as well. Their hand bags have caught eyes from all over as they alter current trends to appease fashion forward shoppers. These prices are the most accessible to all budgets. The cheapest being under $20, bulk of bags being around $50, and the max price you’ll find is $153.
Founded in LA, they play with geometric shapes, fun silhouettes, and intricate designs. The light hearted approach helps to distinguish them from the other popular brands that are focusing on minimal and monochromatic looks. By selecting graphic and beaded fabrics, the bags come off modern but still have a slight Y2k flavor that makes them feel fresh for fashionistas in the scene. They are mostly around $300 to $500, but they earn that price stamp due to their creative efforts and versatility.
Born and raised in Brooklyn, Dianne studied music at NYU. As a vegan and health conscious creator, she wanted to offer the best cruelty-free materials for buyers to have their products last longer, and avoid the health implications that come with using plastic fabrics marketed as green. Her premium leather alternatives are sourced from Italy. When the materials arrive to her in BK she works solo from sketch to sew in the creation of every single bag. By keeping the middle men out of the process, she’s able to keep her prices reasonable and maintain luxury expectations. She sells mainly from her website, markets, and pop-ups (she was also at the Grand Bazaar the same day I spotted Pierre Laborde) but also has a small selection in the shop Lily, located in the Cobble Hill neighborhood of Brooklyn. What I love most about her bags is the sleek appearance and practical features like adjustable straps, extra pockets, and durability. Don’t hesitate to request a customization too! I first purchased The Swoop — which is the exact bag that caught my eye in the West Village. I loved it so much I requested if she could make it in white, and like a fairy godmother, she made my wish come true!
Let me introduce you, to Francis, a solo designer based out of New York, taking advantage of the many materials available to craft one of a kind luxurious bags for men and women. The variety of shapes, hardware, trimmings, and embellishments turn heads and spark conversations everywhere. I came across his designs in person at the Upper West Side’s Grand Bazaar market in 2023 and was floored at the perfection of a pony hair and python finished bag. The fair pricing for such an elevated piece is something hard to come by these days, and his prices of $180 to $600 offer plenty for buyers to choose from.
These hand bags are everywhere right now. With simple but eye catching designs and convertible features, they are successfully carving out a spotlight of their own. They come in at the mid point of designer pricing, with bags starting at $250 and going up to $610. I find them to be in a similar pricing bracket as the longtime loved Dooney and Burke brand.
A brand very comparable to Songmont in execution and expense. The French siblings that started this fashion house in France sought to deliver top tier luxury. They offer a range of styles in various sizes to meet the needs of any consumer. Similar to the previously mentioned brand, they also run about $100 for clutches and go up to $700 for the newer, larger variations.
Rest assured that the perfect fit for your figure, style, and budget is out there. Hopefully with priorities and pain points defined, we can see reflecting in social media the same shift currently making waves in the industry. Have any of these brands caught your attention before now? Or will you plan to purchase a piece for your own closet aesthetic?
Me modeling the Sierra Crescent from Dianne V Bags
